WIIN - Ride of a Life Time (24 – 27 July)

We left Silvergull and travelled past Koolan Island where mining iron ore is active again. Once out of the channel and in to the Gutter there were confused seas, however they soon calmed down and had a good run into Dugong Bay. There were some strong tidal flows and whirlpools and you could feel them grabbing the boat and skewing us sideways. Dugong bay, Beautiful scenery – the waterfall only had a trickle of water, however, looks like it would be quite impressive in the wet.
From Dugong we travelled to Talbot Bay, where the Horizontal Waterfalls are located, and anchored near the entrance to Cyclone Creek. The Kimberley Cat is located here, taking tours through the falls. There are a couple of companies operating, sea-planes bring in the punters from Derby and Broome.
The tide flows through narrow gorges resulting in a tumbling torrent or water. There is a 1 metre height difference and the movement of 14 million litres per minute race through the gap in and out of the inland lagoon. The Kimberley Cat took us through on there boat Ocean Prowler. It is absolutely amazing going through in a boat with that much water movement. This has been one of the hi-lights of our trip so far.
We went exploring Cyclone Creek in the dinghy and travelling through the mangroves further up. Only seeing one crocodile, but looked like the sort of place you would find a few. Later we had dinner aboard the Kimberley Cat, the last flight in for the day stay overnight, so they have 10 guests on board. It was nice to get out and not have to cook or do the dishes. They have resident sharks swimming out the back of the boat – wouldn’t want to jump in the water with them – although they did look well fed!
We haven’t had phone or internet for quite a while, and friends of ours are getting married in Perth, so were thinking of them and wishing we could get a message through. Congratulations to Lisa and Gary.
"Do not be too timid or squeamish about your actions.All life is an experiment."

WIIN - Living in a Hole (21 – 24 July)

We arrived at Crocodile Creek at the same time as 2 other yachts, there was much discussion as to whether 4 yachts (WII 43ft, Head Office 38ft mono’s and Sail Away Too 36ft, Baiha 40ft Cats) could anchor in the puddle at the same time and in true cruising spirit we tried and all fitted – rafted up to one another - with room to spare for the visiting RIB’s of tourists off the cruise ships.
Crocodile Creek at low tide is like being in a big hole – a sand/mud/rock bar blocks the entrance and there are cliffs on other sides. The water level is at the bottom of the ladder, and the water flows down in a small waterfall. When you climb the ladder there is an area with plaques which all the visiting boats leave. We engraved some driftwood and added that to the collection. There is a pool which is fed by a freshwater waterfall that cascades down from the next level. At high tide the sea water also reached this level, so we didn’t swim here. We walked up the rocks next to the waterfall, and there is another pool – this time pure fresh water and beautiful to swim in. The tidal difference while we were there was 9 ½ metres – check out the photos of the ladder at high and low tide.
One of the yachts rigged up a collection of hoses and ran them down from the top pool, so we had fresh water on the boats to fill up water tanks, wash the boats, and do all the washing.
After a couple of days, we left Crocodile Creek on the high tide, and headed for Dog Leg Creek. There we filled up with diesel ($2:50 p/l), and filled our petrol ($3:40p/l) jerry cans from the fuel barge, and then headed for Silvergull Creek, where there were about 6 other boats at anchor.
Phil and Marion reside at Silvergull, and make and sell jewellery. So of course we purchased a couple of items, and also became members of the Squatters Arms Boat Club. There is an old BHP water tank there which is fed by a fresh spring and the water temperature a balmy 32 degrees and runs all year round at 250 litres per second, after a lazy swim in the tank we headed back to WII for a early night and a early start the next morning so the tide is with us as we pass Koolan Island heading for Dugong bay.
“It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters in the end.”

WIIN - Finally in the Kimberley’s (15 – 21 July)

From Cape Leveque on we consider ourselves to be in the Kimberley’s and the scenery, currents and tide are letting us know we have arrived. Leaving Cape Leveque early in the morning to catch favourable winds and tide we headed for Hidden Island 36 nautical miles away. All going smooth till we reach Alarm Shoals, this is the fist and not the last time we’ll meet tide going one way with opposing winds and the swell coming a different direction from the other two - we now have a close affinity with how our clothes feel in a top loader washing machine while doing 9 knots. It only lasted a short while but was a real wake up to what we could expect for the next few months. Then it calmed down and we were flying across King Sound with the MPS up.
Hidden Island is the home of Silica Bay considered a safe swimming beach in the Kimberley’s, squeaky white sand, crystal clear warm water; we had arrived in Kimberley paradise. The afternoon was spent swimming, fishing or should I say loosing more lures, exploring and finished with a BBQ onboard Sail Away Too.
The next morning we were all jolted back to reality of where we were, with Sail Away Too’s RIB having been used as a teething ring by a croc, one of the pontoons had been torn beyond repair (at anchor 200 metres from the beach we were swimming at yesterday!). So we changed our plans with a trip to Derby for a new tender for Sail Away Too needed. We left pretty much straight away and had good tidal assistance – getting up to 12 knots at times and reaching a top of 13.4. We travelled the 45nm to Point Usborne in under 5 hours.
We went exploring the inland sea – it goes for miles and miles. We were amazed at the scenery – wide creeks with cliffs, red rock, boab trees, small shrub, then mangroves and mud-banks, and whirlpools caused by the big tidal movement.
We left early again the next day and reached our 2000nm mark! The water became very muddy looking and stayed that way into Derby, arriving around lunchtime on the high tide. We had trouble anchoring as the holding wasn’t great so picked up a mooring. Derby has some of the largest tides in Australia, and while there we had up to 9 metre movement in tide. Once the tide went out we were sitting in just under 3 metres, and there were sand banks all around us - quite amazing. The resulting current running past the boat was very strong.
Vin managed to find a new dinghy for Sail Away Too (aluminium this time), and we took the opportunity to do our washing and restock on fresh fruit and veges. We were also able to catch up with Murray – a friend from FSC.
We left Derby at 3am in the morning as needed the high water to get out and then the outgoing tide going with us. We made it back to Point Usborne early afternoon. I saw my first crocodile while exploring in the inland sea – just swimming by and at a polite distance away, so all okay.
We left at 2am the following morning to get the right tide, and arrived in Coppermine Creek just after 9am. We had strong winds of 25 knots gusting to 35+knots. Seas were sloppy, but with tide and wind we reached speeds of up to 14knots (a new record for WII) – Steve being a speed freak was loving the ride! The next day we motor sailed to Crocodile Creek as there was no wind.
The difference between an Adventure and an Ordeal is Attitude

WIIN – Broome and Beyond (28 June – 15 July)

Well we are anchored off Gantheaume Point Broome, for those not lucky enough to have visited Broome here is a quick overview of our surroundings. Gantheaume Point is at the south western end of Cable Beach, one of the top beaches in Australia, most days the sea is calm and around 22°C, air temp around 30°C, most enjoyable (although often quite cool at night). We are anchored amongst charter boats, other yachts travelling north and a few mega yachts; the beach is 150 meters away at low tide and around 1200 at high tide. Broome’s history is in pearling and is today a major tourist centre.
Here we stocked up on food, water, and diesel as our next major stop will not be until Darwin or so we thought. Steve flew back to Perth for a few days, and we had a good look around Broome. Tides are starting to have a big effect, and you have to think about where you leave the dinghy on shore excursions. We purchased a new set of dinghy wheels (as our old ones failed us) and that made life much easier. The beach is beautiful hard sand so good for vehicles and the launching of small boats straight off the beach. It is also a popular destination in the evening to watch the sunset.
We caught up with a friend from Esperance – Tom, friends from Fremantle Sailing Club – Grant and Michelle, other yachts – Fayze Too and Thor, and Alex and Val off Hanuman again - having a sea food BBQ with them and Tom on our last night.
After 10 days in Broome we carried on north, stopping at Cape Bertholet and then Cape Baskerville, where we went exploring and mud crabbing in the creeks of Carnot Bay – resulting in chilli crabs for dinner.
From here we had a beautiful sail under MPS to the Lacepede Islands, and while underway we saw sea snakes, turtles, large schools of fish, and in the distance whales. The anchorage was a little rollie, like the anchorages over the last few days – not all that comfortable.
The Islands are four sand and coral islets connected by drying reef. According to the cruising guide it is the largest green turtle rookery on the west coast of Australia and a significant nesting site for frigate and brown booby birds. We didn’t walk on the island as we did not wish to disturb the nesting birds, however could see brown booby birds everywhere with many cute fluffy chicks amongst the grass on the island. We explored the lagoon and saw dozens of turtles, sting-rays and a few shovel nose rays.
Did I mention it was another rollie anchorage? Well we were up and going early heading back to the mainland for Pender Bay. Had a great sail under jib and main, maintaining 6-7 knots most of the way, and covered the 34 nm by lunchtime. The bay is very striking with red cliffs and sand, and the sunset was beautiful – and very protected – no roll!
The next day brought strong winds, and we were underway by 5.30am. Had a good sail with only the jib out and running with wind at 6-7 knots. However at 10.30 we anchored at Cape Leveque as the wind was up to 25-35 knots from the SE, and we didn’t want to round the cape in that and with the tide against us. Cape Leveque is a pretty area and has a well established camping ground ashore from where we had takeaway lunch.
Living the dream, not dreaming the life

WIIN Slow Boat to Broome (11 – 28 June 2008)

Dampier, a harbour of red dust and a great yacht club Hampton Harbor Boat & Sailing Club, free membership to visiting yachts and what you get is: NO charges to use the club amenities, cheap meals and reasonably priced beer, BBQ’s, big screen TV to watch footy on Friday nights, dingy dock (no traipsing through the mud at low tide in the dark), and walking distance from the only supermarket - the ideal cruising yachts club.
We caught up with an old work mate of mine, Ray Boskell and partner Alana. Ray lent us his 4x4 to do our grocery shopping and deplete more of the cruising funds, (an aerial for mobile phone (suppose to be getting away from those things), a couple of extra crab nets, 3 extra 20ltr petrol drums and guess who bought herself a digital underwater camera, not that I’m complaining as I got a free IPod nano with the deal) in Karratha 24 Km away.
On Friday night we caught up with my cousin (we haven’t seen each other for nearly 20 years - a very close family) Bev Mckelvie, partner Jeff and daughter Zoe for a meal at the Sailing Club. Ray also came out to the Sailing Club and we visited him in Karratha for a couple of meals. One night we had take-away from the local Chinese restaurant, and I must say the best Chinese I have tasted in a long time, so if in Dampier give them a go.
As Selena had worked for Woodside in her old life a visit to the Burrup Peninsular was a must, driving out there she started seeing signs of all those assets, she had spent time on in SAP. After 4 days shopping, socialising, spending, sightseeing and washing, it was time to start for Broome.
Sunday morning had showers and squalls, not a nice day to take visitors sailing, but we headed out for Flying Foam Passage with Sail Away Too, Sunseeker and with Ray and Alana onboard, towing their 4 metre tinny. After a couple of hours motor sailing through Dampier harbour, and much improved weather, Ray and Alana departed back to the boat ramp, with the idea to visit us for a week or so when we get to Queensland.
We overnight at the north end of Dolphin Island, next morning headed for Bougner Entrance, near Cape Lambert, via Delambre Island where we stoped with Sunseeker for lunch and a snorkel to test the new underwater digital camera – lots of coral and colourful reef fish. After a rollie night the plan was to sail to Point Sampson and Cossack, but we had upset the weather gods again in some mysterious way and had strong east winds and a choppy confused sea. We were held up crossing the Cape Lambert harbour channel with 1 iron ore ship leaving and 2 more berthing. We changed our mind about visiting Point Sampson and Cossack with the current weather so headed for West Moore Island on the south side of Depuch Island, Sunseeker decided to return to Dampier a good move as we would come to see later.
The anchorage was well protected from all directions but the east at high tide, no prizes for guessing where we got the weather from, rollie at high tide twice a day, nice the rest of the time. So for the next 7 day we stayed put here, while a strong high down south in the bight brought us strong easterlies and gales. On West Moore Island the old pearling accommodation is being turned into a fishing lodge run by the Low family Shann, Merri, Kelvin, Daniel & Heather, who made use very welcome, I’d recommend anyone passing by stop for a night ( http://www.westmooreisland.com.au). We visited Depuch Island one afternoon to see the local aboriginal rock art and some graffiti left from the crew of the HMS Beagle in 1840 (see Depuch Island photos).
The weather finally changed, so it was goodbye to the Low family and off to the high seas again, 20 hours later we dropped anchor at Spit point just north of Port Headland, a few hours sleep then off we set again this time overnight to the Eighty Mile Beach where we anchored just off the beach to wait out a strong easterly wind warning, which never came, BOM strikes again. The next day we were Broome bound and after another overnight sail sunny Broome appeared over the horizon. It has been a quick sail from West Moore to Broome but we were trying to use the weather windows and find some warm weather as the last night sail was so cold we both had to retrieve our polar fleeces, wet weather jackets, beanies and someone even her ugg boots from storage in the forward cabin where we hoped they were going to stay for many months or if lucky even years - another one of the joys of sailing. The plan is to spend a couple of weeks here before heading to the Kimberley’s.

Check out the photos by clicking the link on the right hand side.