WIIN - Living in a Hole (21 – 24 July)

We arrived at Crocodile Creek at the same time as 2 other yachts, there was much discussion as to whether 4 yachts (WII 43ft, Head Office 38ft mono’s and Sail Away Too 36ft, Baiha 40ft Cats) could anchor in the puddle at the same time and in true cruising spirit we tried and all fitted – rafted up to one another - with room to spare for the visiting RIB’s of tourists off the cruise ships.
Crocodile Creek at low tide is like being in a big hole – a sand/mud/rock bar blocks the entrance and there are cliffs on other sides. The water level is at the bottom of the ladder, and the water flows down in a small waterfall. When you climb the ladder there is an area with plaques which all the visiting boats leave. We engraved some driftwood and added that to the collection. There is a pool which is fed by a freshwater waterfall that cascades down from the next level. At high tide the sea water also reached this level, so we didn’t swim here. We walked up the rocks next to the waterfall, and there is another pool – this time pure fresh water and beautiful to swim in. The tidal difference while we were there was 9 ½ metres – check out the photos of the ladder at high and low tide.
One of the yachts rigged up a collection of hoses and ran them down from the top pool, so we had fresh water on the boats to fill up water tanks, wash the boats, and do all the washing.
After a couple of days, we left Crocodile Creek on the high tide, and headed for Dog Leg Creek. There we filled up with diesel ($2:50 p/l), and filled our petrol ($3:40p/l) jerry cans from the fuel barge, and then headed for Silvergull Creek, where there were about 6 other boats at anchor.
Phil and Marion reside at Silvergull, and make and sell jewellery. So of course we purchased a couple of items, and also became members of the Squatters Arms Boat Club. There is an old BHP water tank there which is fed by a fresh spring and the water temperature a balmy 32 degrees and runs all year round at 250 litres per second, after a lazy swim in the tank we headed back to WII for a early night and a early start the next morning so the tide is with us as we pass Koolan Island heading for Dugong bay.
“It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters in the end.”

WIIN - Finally in the Kimberley’s (15 – 21 July)

From Cape Leveque on we consider ourselves to be in the Kimberley’s and the scenery, currents and tide are letting us know we have arrived. Leaving Cape Leveque early in the morning to catch favourable winds and tide we headed for Hidden Island 36 nautical miles away. All going smooth till we reach Alarm Shoals, this is the fist and not the last time we’ll meet tide going one way with opposing winds and the swell coming a different direction from the other two - we now have a close affinity with how our clothes feel in a top loader washing machine while doing 9 knots. It only lasted a short while but was a real wake up to what we could expect for the next few months. Then it calmed down and we were flying across King Sound with the MPS up.
Hidden Island is the home of Silica Bay considered a safe swimming beach in the Kimberley’s, squeaky white sand, crystal clear warm water; we had arrived in Kimberley paradise. The afternoon was spent swimming, fishing or should I say loosing more lures, exploring and finished with a BBQ onboard Sail Away Too.
The next morning we were all jolted back to reality of where we were, with Sail Away Too’s RIB having been used as a teething ring by a croc, one of the pontoons had been torn beyond repair (at anchor 200 metres from the beach we were swimming at yesterday!). So we changed our plans with a trip to Derby for a new tender for Sail Away Too needed. We left pretty much straight away and had good tidal assistance – getting up to 12 knots at times and reaching a top of 13.4. We travelled the 45nm to Point Usborne in under 5 hours.
We went exploring the inland sea – it goes for miles and miles. We were amazed at the scenery – wide creeks with cliffs, red rock, boab trees, small shrub, then mangroves and mud-banks, and whirlpools caused by the big tidal movement.
We left early again the next day and reached our 2000nm mark! The water became very muddy looking and stayed that way into Derby, arriving around lunchtime on the high tide. We had trouble anchoring as the holding wasn’t great so picked up a mooring. Derby has some of the largest tides in Australia, and while there we had up to 9 metre movement in tide. Once the tide went out we were sitting in just under 3 metres, and there were sand banks all around us - quite amazing. The resulting current running past the boat was very strong.
Vin managed to find a new dinghy for Sail Away Too (aluminium this time), and we took the opportunity to do our washing and restock on fresh fruit and veges. We were also able to catch up with Murray – a friend from FSC.
We left Derby at 3am in the morning as needed the high water to get out and then the outgoing tide going with us. We made it back to Point Usborne early afternoon. I saw my first crocodile while exploring in the inland sea – just swimming by and at a polite distance away, so all okay.
We left at 2am the following morning to get the right tide, and arrived in Coppermine Creek just after 9am. We had strong winds of 25 knots gusting to 35+knots. Seas were sloppy, but with tide and wind we reached speeds of up to 14knots (a new record for WII) – Steve being a speed freak was loving the ride! The next day we motor sailed to Crocodile Creek as there was no wind.
The difference between an Adventure and an Ordeal is Attitude

WIIN – Broome and Beyond (28 June – 15 July)

Well we are anchored off Gantheaume Point Broome, for those not lucky enough to have visited Broome here is a quick overview of our surroundings. Gantheaume Point is at the south western end of Cable Beach, one of the top beaches in Australia, most days the sea is calm and around 22°C, air temp around 30°C, most enjoyable (although often quite cool at night). We are anchored amongst charter boats, other yachts travelling north and a few mega yachts; the beach is 150 meters away at low tide and around 1200 at high tide. Broome’s history is in pearling and is today a major tourist centre.
Here we stocked up on food, water, and diesel as our next major stop will not be until Darwin or so we thought. Steve flew back to Perth for a few days, and we had a good look around Broome. Tides are starting to have a big effect, and you have to think about where you leave the dinghy on shore excursions. We purchased a new set of dinghy wheels (as our old ones failed us) and that made life much easier. The beach is beautiful hard sand so good for vehicles and the launching of small boats straight off the beach. It is also a popular destination in the evening to watch the sunset.
We caught up with a friend from Esperance – Tom, friends from Fremantle Sailing Club – Grant and Michelle, other yachts – Fayze Too and Thor, and Alex and Val off Hanuman again - having a sea food BBQ with them and Tom on our last night.
After 10 days in Broome we carried on north, stopping at Cape Bertholet and then Cape Baskerville, where we went exploring and mud crabbing in the creeks of Carnot Bay – resulting in chilli crabs for dinner.
From here we had a beautiful sail under MPS to the Lacepede Islands, and while underway we saw sea snakes, turtles, large schools of fish, and in the distance whales. The anchorage was a little rollie, like the anchorages over the last few days – not all that comfortable.
The Islands are four sand and coral islets connected by drying reef. According to the cruising guide it is the largest green turtle rookery on the west coast of Australia and a significant nesting site for frigate and brown booby birds. We didn’t walk on the island as we did not wish to disturb the nesting birds, however could see brown booby birds everywhere with many cute fluffy chicks amongst the grass on the island. We explored the lagoon and saw dozens of turtles, sting-rays and a few shovel nose rays.
Did I mention it was another rollie anchorage? Well we were up and going early heading back to the mainland for Pender Bay. Had a great sail under jib and main, maintaining 6-7 knots most of the way, and covered the 34 nm by lunchtime. The bay is very striking with red cliffs and sand, and the sunset was beautiful – and very protected – no roll!
The next day brought strong winds, and we were underway by 5.30am. Had a good sail with only the jib out and running with wind at 6-7 knots. However at 10.30 we anchored at Cape Leveque as the wind was up to 25-35 knots from the SE, and we didn’t want to round the cape in that and with the tide against us. Cape Leveque is a pretty area and has a well established camping ground ashore from where we had takeaway lunch.
Living the dream, not dreaming the life